I have five locos V200.0 and V200.1. For best driving results, all of them have a second pickup shoe. It works well, but there were some traction problems on double turnouts 2275. At speedlevel 2 or slower and a coupled train the loco stands often in the middle of the double turnout with spinning wheels. Additional lead weights does not help. It is enough space under the motor bogie for the long pickup shoe 7185. The pickup show has two steps in the middle, which waste space, but without this steps some point contacts get caught in the hole. Pickup shoes without hole and steps are too short.
I tried to fit a 50 mm long pickup shoe without hole 20 63 70 unter the driven bogie. To have enough space for the thick "end" of the pickup shoe, I have to mill a square hole into the bogie (red area). I use a Dremel and tungsten carbide cutters. Normal high speed cutters or grinding stones are unsuitable for this work. The pickup shoe is 5 mm wide, but I made the hole 7 mm wide. If it failed to glue the pickup shoe absolute strait, there is 1 mm space on both sides. The hole is 3 mm deep. This ist enough to catch the big end of the pickup shoe.
First I drilled a 3-4 mm deep hole with a 3 mm drill bit in the mddle of the red area. Then I took the dremel cutter 9904 to enlarge the hole. It is important to use a high speed (25-30000 rpm) and not to press hard against the material, then the cutter bites soft like into butter. The 9904 has teeth at the top to erase some bumps at the bottom of the hole. The main cuttiong work must be done with the side of the cutter. The point or tip of the cuttercuts poorly and chatters. The hole is with 4 mm larger than the 2,4 mm cutter. Do not use these cutters for enlarging holes that are less than two times the diameter of the cutter. Because of their surface, these cutter can easily grab the sides of a hole and break into peaces. After the hole had the right size, I took the cutter 9902, which has a flat top. I removed the round edges at the bottom at the hole. Be shure not to damage the driven axle (red arrow). The axle of the gearwheel is deeper, there ist no danger.
The driven bogie is hold by a sheet af metal to the chassis. It is too thick and must be grind. The same must be done with the screw (blue arrow). I wide the hole in the metal sheed with a grinding bit 952 to be able to turn the screw deeper into the hole. So I got a plan bottom. For the isolatiion I glued a piece of paper (orange arrow) onto the bogie and into the hole. The pickup shoe has a platic part and this must be removed. Also there a four metal stripes at the side. I cut two of then and use one to solde a wire onto (purple arrow). Now the pickup shoe is ready to fit under the bogie. I use quick glue, because double adhesive tape lost its power after a while. Because of the not-centered position of the pickup shoe, only one of the body screws can be used (green arrow). This is not a drawback.
The test drive works very well. The traction power on DKW 2275 is the same like without a second pickup shoe. The contact was with the old pickup shoe good, but with the new one even better.